Why April is the Best Time for a Sewer Line Checkup
In Minnesota, we spend all winter worrying about our pipes freezing. But now that the ground is finally softening up in the Twin Cities, a new set of challenges is literally "branching out" beneath your lawn.

While you’re busy with spring cleaning inside your home’s most important drainage system—the main sewer line—is facing its toughest month of the year. Here’s why April is the "Golden Window" for a professional plumbing health check.

1. The "Root" of the Problem
As the soil warms up, trees and shrubs wake up thirsty. In their search for moisture, roots are naturally drawn to the condensation on the outside of your sewer pipes. If there’s even a tiny hairline crack, those roots will find it, grow inside, and create a massive "hairball" that leads to a nasty backup.

Catching root intrusion now, before the heavy May growth spurt, can save you from a middle-of-the-night emergency later this summer.

2. Shifting Soils = Stressful Pipes
The "freeze-thaw" cycle in Minnesota is legendary. As the deep frost leaves the ground, the earth around your home shifts and settles. This movement can put immense pressure on older clay or cast-iron pipes, causing them to sag (creating "bellies" where waste collects) or even snap.

If your toilets are gurgling or you’re noticing strange smells in the yard, the ground shift might have moved your pipes.

3. Flushing Out the Winter "Gunk"
During the winter, we tend to use more hot water and cook heavier, greasier meals. Over time, fats, oils, and soap scum build up on the inside of your pipes. Think of a Spring Drain Cleaning like a "detox" for your home. It clears out the winter sludge so your system can handle the high volume of spring rain.

4. Water Heater "Spring Cleaning"
Did you know our Minnesota "hard water" works overtime in the winter? As your water heater ran non-stop during the sub-zero months, sediment (minerals like calcium and magnesium) likely settled at the bottom of the tank.

Your heater has to work harder to heat the water through that layer of "rock," leading to higher energy bills and a shorter lifespan for the unit.

 A quick professional flush this month can add years to your water heater’s life.
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Don't wait for a "Spring Break" you didn't plan for. A quick camera inspection of your sewer line or a water heater flush this month is the best insurance policy against a messy summer.

If you're thinking about upgrading your water heater, chances are you've heard the buzz about tankless models. These compact, energy-efficient systems heat water on demand—meaning no more running out of hot water and no more paying to keep a giant tank warm 24/7.
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But one of the biggest decisions you’ll face is choosing electric or gas. Both have their pros and cons, and what’s right for one home might not be right for another. At Tony’s Plumbing and Heating, we help homeowners all over Minnesota weigh their options. Here's what you need to know.

Understanding the Basics
A tankless water heater works by heating water only when you turn on the tap. As the water flows through the unit, it passes over a heating element (electric or gas-powered), instantly raising the temperature. That means no waiting for a tank to refill—and no paying to keep water hot all day long.
Electric and gas units do the same job, but how they get there—and how they perform over time—can vary significantly.

Why Choose an Electric Tankless Water Heater?
Electric tankless models are often seen as the more budget-friendly option upfront. They’re compact, quiet, and usually easier to install, especially in homes that don't have natural gas service. Because they don’t need venting like gas models do, you have more flexibility in where they can be placed.
These units work especially well in smaller homes or places with low to moderate hot water demand. They’re also a popular choice for add-ons like in-law suites or detached garages, where running a gas line would be costly or complicated.

However, in areas with higher electricity rates, the cost of running an electric unit over time might be higher than a gas model. And if you have a large family or tend to use multiple hot water fixtures at once, you might notice that electric systems can struggle to keep up, especially during cold Minnesota winters.

What About Gas Tankless Water Heaters?
Gas-powered tankless units shine when it comes to performance. They heat water quickly and deliver higher flow rates, making them ideal for larger households with heavier hot water needs—think multiple bathrooms, laundry, and the dishwasher all running at once.

If your home is already hooked up to natural gas, installing a gas unit might be the logical choice. While the upfront cost is often higher, especially if venting needs to be installed or upgraded, many homeowners find that the lower operating costs of natural gas offset the initial expense over time.
That said, gas units do require more complex installation, including proper venting for exhaust gases and a sufficient gas supply line. And like any combustion appliance, they require regular maintenance to ensure safety and efficiency.

What’s Right for Your Home?
The answer depends on a few key factors: your home’s existing energy setup, how much hot water your household uses at once, your budget for installation, and your long-term energy costs.
For smaller homes, apartments, or homes without gas access, an electric unit is often the best fit. For larger homes with multiple bathrooms or families with heavy water use, gas tends to provide better long-term performance and value.

If you’re still unsure, that’s where we come in.

Talk to the Experts at Tony’s Plumbing and Heating
Choosing the right water heater isn't just about convenience—it's about energy efficiency, long-term savings, and making sure your family never has to take a cold shower again. Our team can evaluate your home’s needs and help you decide which system makes the most sense, whether that’s electric, gas, or even a high-efficiency traditional model.
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Ready to upgrade to tankless? Give Tony’s Plumbing and Heating a call today. We’ll walk you through your options, provide a personalized quote, and handle installation from start to finish.

A small drip from your water heater might not seem like a big deal—but if it's coming from the pressure relief valve, it’s worth your attention.
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At Tony’s Plumbing and Heating, we get lots of winter calls about leaking water heater valves, especially when homeowners are using more hot water or heating systems are working overtime. Here’s what you should know—and when to call in the pros.

What Is the Pressure Relief Valve?
The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) is a safety feature on your water heater. It’s designed to:

• Release pressure if the water inside the tank gets too hot (usually above 210°F) or the pressure gets too high (above 150 psi)
• Prevent your tank from exploding due to dangerous pressure build-up

You’ll typically find the valve on the side or top of the water heater, with a pipe running down the side to safely direct released water.

Why Is It Leaking?
If you notice water dripping from the valve or the discharge pipe, it could mean:
1. Normal Operation

• Sometimes the valve releases small amounts of water to relieve built-up pressure—especially during high hot water usage.
• If it’s occasional and minimal, it may not be a problem.

2. Excess Pressure in the Tank

• If your water pressure is too high, the valve may open frequently.
• High pressure can be caused by:
  • A faulty expansion tank
  • High municipal water pressure
  • Thermal expansion as water heats

3. Temperature Is Too High

• If your water heater’s thermostat is set too high, it could be triggering the valve to open.

4. Faulty or Worn-Out Valve

• Over time, sediment buildup or age can cause the valve to leak constantly, even if there’s no pressure issue.
• Once the valve is compromised, it often needs to be replaced—not repaired.

Why You Shouldn’t Ignore It
A constantly leaking T&P valve is not just annoying—it’s a warning sign.
Ignoring it could lead to:

• Water damage near the heater
• Higher utility bills
• Full system failure
• In rare cases, a dangerous pressure buildup if the valve stops working entirely

What Should You Do?
Here’s what we recommend:

1. Don’t cap or plug the valve – It’s a safety feature and should always be open to release pressure if needed.
2. Check the thermostat – Make sure it’s set no higher than 120°F.
3. Look for consistent dripping – Occasional discharge is normal. Constant dripping or pooling is not.
4. Call a licensed plumber – If you're unsure whether it’s safe or if the valve needs replacing, let us take a look.

Need Help? Call Tony’s Plumbing and HeatingIf your water heater’s pressure relief valve is leaking, we can:

• Inspect and test the valve
• Check water pressure and temperature
• Replace the valve if needed
• Recommend solutions to prevent future problems (like a thermal expansion tank)

​Don’t wait for a drip to turn into damage. Call Tony’s Plumbing and Heating today—we’ll keep your hot water flowing safely all winter long.

A clogged drain or overflowing toilet always seems to happen at the worst possible time. But before you panic, grab your plunger! It's one of the most effective (and underrated) tools in your home.
At Tony’s Plumbing and Heating, we’ve unclogged just about everything—and we’re here to share how to use a plunger properly so you can handle small clogs like a pro.

First, Choose the Right Plunger
Not all plungers are the same! There are two main types:
1. Cup Plunger (Flat Bottom)

• Best for sinks, tubs, and showers
• Flat rubber cup, ideal for creating a seal on flat surfaces

2. Flange Plunger (With Extra Rubber Flap)

• Designed for toilets
• The extra flap fits into the toilet drain for better suction

If you're trying to unclog a toilet with a cup plunger—it won’t work nearly as well!

Step-by-Step: How to Use a Plunger
Whether it’s a sink or toilet, here’s how to plunge effectively:

1. Add Water If Needed
There needs to be enough water in the bowl or basin to cover the plunger’s cup. This helps create a strong seal.

2. Create a Tight Seal
Position the plunger directly over the drain and press down gently to force out the air. Then, firmly press and pull the plunger up and down--without lifting it off the surface.

3. Plunge with Force
Use strong, quick thrusts for 15–30 seconds. You're creating suction and pressure to dislodge the clog.
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4. Test the Drain
Remove the plunger and check if the water drains. If not, repeat the process. Some clogs take a few rounds.

What Not to Do

• Don’t use chemical drain cleaners before plunging—they can splash back and cause burns.
• Don’t plunge a sink with a garbage disposal without unplugging it first.
• Don’t give up too soon—persistent plunging often works!

Clean Up
After the clog is cleared, clean your plunger with disinfectant and hot water. It’s a good idea to store it in a bucket or container for sanitary storage.

Still Clogged? Call Tony’s Plumbing and Heating
If you’ve tried plunging and nothing’s working, or the clog keeps coming back, it might be a sign of a deeper issue—like a blockage in your sewer line or buildup in your pipes.

We’re here to help with:

• Stubborn toilet clogs
• Backed-up sinks or tubs
• Drain cleaning and inspection
• Whole-home plumbing maintenance

Give us a call and we’ll get things flowing again—fast, clean, and done right.

Planning a sunny getaway this winter? While you're enjoying the beach or ski slopes, your home's plumbing system is still battling the Minnesota cold.

At Tony’s Plumbing and Heating, we’ve seen the damage a frozen or burst pipe can cause—especially when no one is home to catch it. Here’s how to protect your home’s plumbing and heating system while you're on vacation.

Keep the Heat On (Yes, Really)
It might be tempting to turn your heat way down to save money while you’re gone, but don’t do it! Your heating system plays a crucial role in preventing pipes from freezing.

Recommended Thermostat Setting:
Keep your heat at 55°F or higher while you're away to maintain a safe temperature in your walls, crawlspaces, and basements—where pipes are most vulnerable.

If you have a smart thermostat, set it to "away mode" and monitor your home from anywhere.

Prep Your Plumbing Before You Go
Before you head out, give your plumbing some love to avoid coming home to water damage.
Vacation Plumbing Checklist:

• Shut off the main water supply (especially for longer trips)
• Drain pipes by opening faucets and flushing toilets after shutting off the water
• Insulate exposed pipes in unheated areas like basements, garages, and under sinks
• Disconnect garden hoses and cover outdoor spigots
• Leave cabinet doors open under sinks to allow warm air to circulate

Don’t Forget Your Water Heater
If you shut off the water to your house, it’s also a good idea to:

• Turn off your water heater, or
• Set it to “vacation mode” if available

This saves energy while preventing unnecessary strain or damage while the system isn't in use.

Ask a Neighbor to Check In
If you're away for more than a few days, ask a neighbor, friend, or family member to:

• Check the thermostat and plumbing areas
• Look for signs of leaks or frost
• Make sure the heat is still running

Catching issues early—even from a small drip—can prevent a major disaster.

Schedule a Pre-Vacation Plumbing & Heating Check
Not sure if your system is vacation-ready? Let our team at Tony’s Plumbing and Heating give you peace of mind. We’ll inspect:

• Your furnace and thermostat
• Pipe insulation and leak-prone areas
• Water heater settings
• Sump pump operation

Travel Worry-Free with Tony’s Plumbing and Heating
A little prep goes a long way toward protecting your home. Before you head off on your winter escape, make sure your plumbing and heating systems are ready for the cold.

Schedule your winter check-up today—and leave home with confidence.

As Minnesota temperatures plummet in January, your plumbing system faces one of its biggest challenges of the year: the risk of frozen pipes. A single frozen pipe can burst, causing thousands of dollars in water damage—not to mention major headaches.

At Tony’s Plumbing and Heating, we want to help you avoid winter plumbing emergencies. Here’s what every homeowner should know this season.

Why Do Pipes Freeze in Winter?
When the temperature drops below freezing, the water inside your pipes can freeze, expand, and eventually cause the pipe to burst. Pipes in unheated or poorly insulated areas—like basements, garages, crawlspaces, or exterior walls—are the most vulnerable.

Common causes of frozen pipes include:

• Lack of insulation around plumbing
• Cracked windows or air leaks near pipes
• Thermostat set too low when you're away from home

How to Prevent Frozen Pipes
The good news? With a few simple steps, you can prevent frozen pipes and protect your home.

Here’s what we recommend:

• Insulate pipes in cold areas with foam pipe insulation.
• Keep cabinet doors open (especially under sinks) to let warm air circulate around pipes.
• Let faucets drip slightly on bitterly cold nights—moving water is less likely to freeze.
• Seal cracks and openings around pipes to prevent cold air from creeping in.
• Keep the thermostat consistent, even when you're away—ideally 55°F or higher.

Signs Your Pipes May Be Frozen
Catch the warning signs early to avoid disaster. Look out for:

• Little or no water flow from faucets
• Frost or condensation on visible pipes
• Odd smells from drains (which can mean a pipe is blocked with ice)

If you notice any of these red flags, don’t wait—take action immediately.

What to Do If a Pipe Freezes
First things first: turn off the water supply to prevent damage if the pipe bursts.
Then:

• Use a hair dryer or space heater to gently warm the pipe (never use an open flame!)
• Open nearby faucets to allow melted water to flow out
• Call a professional plumber if you can’t access or safely thaw the pipe

At Tony’s Plumbing and Heating, we’re just a phone call away and ready to help with emergency service.

Winter Plumbing Tune-Ups: Peace of Mind All Season
January is a great time for a plumbing and heating checkup. During a winter tune-up, our licensed technicians can:

• Check for vulnerable pipes
• Ensure your furnace is running efficiently
• Look for leaks, cracks, or signs of wear
• Test your water heater performance

It’s a small investment that can save you from big problems later.
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Call Tony’s Plumbing and Heating Today! 
​Don’t let frozen pipes ruin your winter. Whether you need help winterizing your home, thawing a pipe, or upgrading your system, Tony’s Plumbing and Heating is here for you.

Call us today to schedule your winter plumbing check-up and enjoy a warm, worry-free season.

It can be confusing when you’re doing a little DIY plumbing, so we put together some information for you to understand the basics of your toilet. What are all the pieces and parts? If someone says, “your flapper may not be sealed”, do you even know what a flapper is?

A toilet has two main parts, the tank and the bowl. The tank holds all the “plumbing” so to speak. It has all the bits that make the toilet flush. This includes the fill valve, the flush valve, the flapper, and the float. And of course the bowl is the part you sit on. 

Toilet tank components

• Toilet/flush handle: The lever on the side of the tank that you push or pull to flush. A dual-flush toilet will have buttons on the tank lid. (There is a dual flush tank that has two buttons on top that can release different amounts of water.)
• Trip lever:  Connected to the toilet handle on the outside of the tank and connected to the flapper by a chain. When you push down on the toilet handle, it will pull the chain, breaking the seal and allowing water to “flush” the bowl. 
• Chain: Connects the flush handle to the flapper.
• Float ball: Looks like a ball that floats on the water's surface to signal the fill valve to stop the flow of water once it reaches the correct level.
• Fill valve/ Ballcock:  This controls the flow of water into the tank and refills it after the toilet is flushed.
• Flush valve/gasket: A large opening at the bottom of the tank that is sealed by the flapper valve.
• Flapper Valve: Seals the flush valve, so the tank can fill with water. It’s like a plug.  When the toilet is flushed, it lifts up to let water rush into the bowl.
• Overflow tube: A vertical tube that prevents the tank from overfilling and therefore overflowing out of the toilet.
• Supply line: A flexible hose that connects the toilet to the water supply line on the wall. 
• Stop valve/Shut off valve: Attached to the water supply line on the wall,  this valve can turn the water off and stop the flow into the toilet tank.

Toilet bowl components

• Seat and lid
• Rim: The top edge of the bowl that has small holes underneath to allow water to flow in and rinse the bowl.
• Trapway: The S-shaped pipe at the bottom of the bowl that carries waste into the drain.
• Siphon jet: A jet of water that clears the trapway.
• Closet flange: A fitting that connects the toilet and seals to the waste pipe. 

Use this as a guide to understand how a toilet works. Hopefully this understanding will help you maintain your toilet when necessary. And when things are beyond your own skills, give us a call at Tony’s Plumbing and Heating and we can get your toilet flushing again in no time.

Ok, here it comes. The holidays are upon us and it is already stressful without having to deal with a plumbing emergency. But fear not. If you happen to hit a seasonal snafu, here are some ways to handle problems before you have to call a plumber.

Clogged toilet: When your toilet is clogged, do not try to flush it again, this can cause it to overflow. 

1. If the toilet is overflowing, turn off the water coming into the toilet by turning the shut off valve located behind the toilet and attached to the wall. This will stop the flow of water into the toilet and stop the over flow. 
2. Next, get a plunger and start plunging. A flange plunger works best because it creates a better seal. Make sure there is a good seal, then plunge forcefully up to 10 times. This should clear the problem. Repeat this process if it doesn’t unclog.
3. Use some old towels to clean up any mess on the floor. 

If you’re lucky, the clog will unjam and the water will drain quickly and it’s a fairly painless fix! If the clog persists, you may have a bigger issue.

Fixing a garbage disposal backup:

1. First turn off the power to the garbage disposal; go to the electrical breaker box to turn off the power. 
2. Use a flashlight to see any debris that may be stuck in the drain, then remove the debris with tongs (never put your hand down the drain). 
3. Press the reset button on the bottom of the unit. Look for a small, red or black reset button on the bottom of the disposal unit and press it firmly. 
4. Turn the power back on, and see if this fixed the problem.  
5. If it is still clogged, turn the power off again. Then manually rotate the blades with an allen wrench: find the hexagonal socket on the underside of the disposal and insert an Allen wrench and rotate back and forth. This should clear whatever is jammed in there and free the impellers. Impellers are a pair of metal lugs that are mounted on a spinning plate (they are not the blades).
6. If it is still clogged, see below.

Clogged sink:

1.  Use a sink plunger to dislodge the blockage. Place it over the sink drain to create a good seal and place a towel or stopper over the other sink drain if you have a double sink to create suction.
2. Use vinegar and baking soda to help clear the drain. Pour baking soda (½ cup) into the drain, then add white vinegar (1 cup) to let the mixture fizz. Let the mixture sit for about 20-30 minutes to break down the clog. Then add boiling water down the drain to flush the clogged materials out. 
3. If the problem persists, check the P-trap. The P-trap is the u-shaped pipe under your sink. Place a bucket under the pipe and loosen the slip nuts to remove the trap and check for blockages. Clean it out and reassemble the plumbing, then run cold water to flush it out.

If these fixes don’t cure your plumbing ailments, then you’ll have to call in a plumber to deal with whatever bigger issue is lurking underneath the surface. Tony’s Plumbing and Heating is here to help, even if it is after hours. Give us a ring and we can get your holidays back on track.

November is the last call for easy home maintenance before winter hits with a vengeance! When the first hard freeze arrives, your plumbing and heating systems will be working overtime. Performing some preventive maintenance now can save you time and money in the future, a massive headache—and an expensive emergency call—later.

Here are three simple "Home Hacks" from the pros at Tony's Plumbing and Heating that every homeowner can do this weekend.

Hack #1: The Water Heater "Flush and Rescue"

Your water heater is about to become your home's hardest worker. Sediment (mineral deposits) builds up on the bottom of the tank, acting like a blanket that forces your heater to work harder and longer, which wastes energy and shortens the unit's lifespan.
The 1-Hour Hack:

1. Turn off the gas or electricity supply to the water heater.
2. Connect your garden hose to the drain valve located near the bottom of the tank.*
3. Run the other end of the hose to a nearby drain or outside. Open the drain valve and let the water (and all that chunky sediment) run out. You may need to open the pressure relief valve to help the water flow.
4. Once the water runs clear, close the drain valve, detach the hose, and turn the water and power back on.

Pro Tip from Tony’s: If you hear popping or rumbling sounds when your water heater runs, that's sediment! This hack is mandatory. If your unit is over 10 years old, call us for a professional inspection—it might be time for a safer, more efficient replacement.

Hack #2: The Furnace Filter "Sticky Note" Reminder
The heating season is here, and a clean filter is the single cheapest way to boost efficiency and maintain warm air flow. A dirty filter chokes your furnace, making it burn more fuel for the same result.

The 5-Minute Hack:

1. Check and Change: Locate your furnace filter (usually in a slot where the return duct enters the unit) and check the date on the old one. If it's been 90 days or more, replace it with a new, correctly sized filter.
2. The Sticky Note Hack: Write the current date (e.g., "November 2025") on a new filter with a sharpie before you slide it in. Then, place a sticky note on the furnace door or nearby with the next change date (e.g., "Change in Feb"). This eliminates the guesswork!

Pro Tip from Tony’s: Changing your filter regularly can prevent a clogged system that causes your furnace to completely shut down on the coldest day of the year. If your furnace is blowing cold air, or if it’s making loud noises, don't wait—your favorite HVAC today.

Hack #3: The Frozen Pipe "Cabinet Door" SolutionThe pipes most likely to freeze are those located along an exterior wall, especially under a kitchen or bathroom sink. They're only protected by a thin layer of cabinet wood and drywall.

The 5-Second Hack (for extreme cold):

1. Locate Vulnerable Sinks: Identify sinks that sit on an outside wall of your home.
2. Open the Doors: When temperatures dip below freezing, simply open the cabinet doors under those sinks. This allows warm air from your house to circulate around the pipes and prevents the water inside from freezing and bursting the line.
3. Use a Slow Drip: For maximum protection during an overnight freeze, let a faucet connected to that line run at a slow, steady drip. Moving water is much harder to freeze.

Pro Tip from Tony’s: If you turn on a faucet and only get a trickle of water, you may have a frozen pipe. Immediately turn off your main water valve to prevent* a rupture when the pipe thaws, and contact Tony's Plumbing without delay. Do NOT use a blowtorch or any open flame to thaw the pipe, as this poses a fire hazard!

Need a Professional Hand? Don't let a major repair ruin your holidays. The certified team at Tony's Plumbing and Heating is ready to tackle the jobs that are too big for a simple hack. Call Tony's Plumbing and Heating today to schedule your professional winter service!

*https://www.watermedia.org/how-to-turn-water-heater-off
*https://www.ericasplumbing.com/how-to-install-hot-water-heater-fl/
*https://www.parson-plumbing.com/post/frozen-pipes-how-to-prevent-and-safely-restart-the-flow